Twice-Cooked Pork 回锅肉 | The Council Cookbook

The Origin

Ask any Sichuanese person their favorite dish, and this will be in the top three. It's the taste of home.

Sichuan

Sichuan Province, China

四川省

In every Sichuan home kitchen, this dish is king. Not mapo tofu, not kung pao chicken — those are restaurant food. Twice-cooked pork is what mom makes on Tuesday.

Name 回锅 = Return to Wok

Style Home Cooking

Key Technique Double Cooking

The Philosophy of Twice

The name is literal: huí guō (回锅) means "return to the wok." The pork is cooked twice — first simmered whole to render fat and tenderize, then sliced and stir-fried to transform.

This technique wasn't born from luxury. It was born from frugality. In rural Sichuan, a piece of pork belly might be simmered for one meal, then the leftover meat would be sliced and stir-fried the next day. What started as peasant ingenuity became refined cuisine.

The magic happens in the second cooking. When thin-sliced belly hits a smoking hot wok, the edges curl, the fat renders and crisps, and the lean meat caramelizes. The doubanjiang and sweet bean paste paint everything in red and brown. The leeks provide sharp contrast.

It's not flashy. It's not complicated. But ask anyone from Sichuan what they miss when they're far from home, and this will be the answer.

"The greatest dishes aren't invented. They're discovered, in kitchens, by people who had nothing and made something perfect."

Did You Know?

The sign of properly cooked twice-cooked pork is when the meat slices curl into what Sichuanese call "lamp socket shapes" (灯盏窝) — cupped like small bowls. This happens when the fat renders and contracts while the lean meat relaxes. If your pork stays flat, your wok wasn't hot enough.

The Craft

Simple technique, but everything must be done right.

Báo — The Thin Slice

After simmering, the pork is sliced thin — 2-3mm. This surface area is essential. More surface = more caramelization = more flavor.

Jiāo — The Sear

The second cooking must be blazing hot. No oil at first — let the pork render its own fat. The slices should curl and char slightly at the edges.

Jiàng — The Paste

Two pastes define the dish: doubanjiang for heat and umami, tianmianjiang (sweet bean paste) for depth and balance. Neither is optional.

The Ingredients

The simplicity is deceptive. Every ingredient pulls weight.

The Meat

500g Pork belly, skin-on A piece about 2 inches thick. Skin is optional but traditional.

For Simmering

3 slices Ginger
2 Scallion stalks
1 tbsp Shaoxing wine
1 Star anise (optional)

The Soul

Essential — These Define the Dish

2 tbsp Pixian Doubanjiang 郫县豆瓣酱 Fermented chili bean paste. The spicy, savory base.
1 tbsp Tianmianjiang (Sweet Bean Paste) 甜面酱 Adds sweetness and color. Hoisin is NOT a substitute.

The Vegetables

2 large stalks Leeks (Chinese or regular) 蒜苗 Traditional is 蒜苗 (garlic shoots). Leeks are the common substitute.

The Supporting Cast

1 tbsp Shaoxing wine
1 tsp Light soy sauce
½ tsp Sugar
4 cloves Garlic, sliced
1 tbsp Fermented black beans (optional) 豆豉

The Method

Two cookings, one perfect dish.

The First Cooking

Gentle simmering to prepare the meat.

Place the whole pork belly in a pot. Cover with cold water. Add ginger, scallions, Shaoxing wine, and star anise if using.

Bring to a boil, skim any foam, then reduce to a gentle simmer. Cook for 20-25 minutes until a chopstick can pierce the meat with slight resistance.

Doneness Test

The meat should be about 80% cooked — firm but yielding. If it's completely soft, you've gone too far. It will finish in the wok.

Remove and let cool completely. Refrigerating for 30 minutes makes slicing easier. Slice across the grain into thin pieces, about 2mm thick and 2 inches long.

The Second Cooking

Where the magic happens.

Cut leeks diagonally into 2-inch pieces. Separate whites and greens — they cook at different rates.

Heat your wok until smoking. Add the pork slices WITHOUT any oil. Spread them in a single layer. Let them sear undisturbed for 30 seconds.

Critical Technique

No oil. The pork belly has plenty. Starting dry forces the fat to render out, crisping the meat instead of braising it. This is the secret to the dish.

Stir-fry until the pork curls into cup shapes, the fat is rendered, and you see some charred edges — about 3-4 minutes. Push to the side.

The Curl Test

When the slices curl into little cups (灯盏窝), you've done it right. If they stay flat, your wok wasn't hot enough.

Add the doubanjiang to the oil in the center of the wok. Stir-fry for 30 seconds until the oil turns red. Add tianmianjiang and black beans if using. Stir 15 seconds more.

The Finish

Bringing it together.

Toss the pork with the paste until every piece is coated and glistening red. Add garlic and leek whites. Splash in the Shaoxing wine.

Add soy sauce and sugar. Toss well. Add leek greens, stir-fry for 30 seconds — they should be barely wilted, still vibrant.

Remove from heat. Serve immediately over steamed rice. This dish doesn't wait.

The Perfect Bite

Crispy fat, tender meat, the heat of doubanjiang, the sweetness of tianmianjiang, the fresh bite of leeks. That's what you're going for.

Troubleshooting

Common problems, simple fixes.

Pork is Chewy

You didn't simmer it long enough the first time. The collagen needs heat to break down. Give it another 10 minutes in the pot next time.

Too Greasy

You didn't render enough fat. Keep the pork in the dry wok longer, letting more fat melt out before adding anything else.

Not Enough Flavor

More doubanjiang. The paste is the soul — don't be shy. And make sure you're frying it until the oil turns red.

Variations

How to adapt the classic.

With Bell Peppers

Green bell peppers or cubanelles are common additions. Add with the leeks. Not traditional, but widely practiced and delicious.

With Dried Tofu

Sliced pressed tofu (豆腐干) can extend the dish or replace half the pork. Stir-fry it separately first until golden.

Extra Spicy

Add a handful of dried Sichuan chilies with the doubanjiang. Or top with fresh-ground Sichuan peppercorn for the numbing effect.